4 Kopiku Espresso Blend

A month or so ago, I have the pleasant chance of meeting the people behind Kopiku

Anyway, A few day after meeting them, Their 4 espresso blend is waiting for me to be picked up. Kembang Desa, Gunung Preanger, 93 an Excelent Blend. Sadly, I couldn’t taste and test them up right away. Needs another 2 weeks before i got a chance to play with them. Well.. think of it as an extra chance to degassing and for all the beans to mingle up, hoping for a more unison blend.

Out of their 4 Blend, the Kembang Desa is their pride and joy. The batch I got is honestly interesting with subtle tobacco and smoky notes that reminds you with smoked beef. For me the 93 blend is their well rounded blend, still taste good as espresso and cappuccino. For espresso drinker, their Excelent Blend is the one to choose. One thing for sure, all of the 4 Blend have really thick crema. The coffee I tested is around 1 month old from roasting date

All these coffee is being tested using my Expobar Office, grouphead water temp is set at 92C, using Aqua brand water from Babakan Pari Gunung Salak Springs, a 20gr double basket, and Greenfields Pasterurized as Milk

PT Kopiku Indonesia, Skybee One Building 4th floor, Jl. Kebon Sirih no. 63 Jakarta 10340. ph. +62-21-391.8088 email. info@kopiku-indo.com

Kembang Desa as espresso

brew time 25 ml/21 second; smoky! and a bit astringent at the end

brew time 25 ml/22 second; Sweet, creamy, big tobacco flavor, no middle notes, not too bitter

brew time 20 ml/23 second; sweet, creamy, have honey mouthfeel

brew time 20 ml/28 second; sweet, complex, balanced

brew time 25 ml/30 second; salty at the end… interesting

Kembang Desa as Cappuccino

brew time 20 ml/23 second; creamy, hazelnut, sweet, with soft coffee aroma layering at the back 

brew time 20 ml/28 second; milk still dominates, but overall ok

brew time 25 ml/30 second; weak, taste like latte

Gunung Preanger as Espresso

brew time 25 ml/20 second; bitter, but nice body and crema

brew time 25 ml/26 second; harsh at the beginning, but really sweet ending

brew time 30 ml/28 second; flat, astringent at the back

brew time 15 ml/30 second; pulling this shot just out of curiosity, and regret it. Taste like a bad tabasco! Very spicy, sour, and it stays! – curious what will happen if i mix this with mayo and making it a dip for boiled prawn… hmmmm

Gunung Preanger as Cappuccino

brew time 25 ml/20 second; the coffee is lost within the milk if you use 1 shot, but with 2, the espresso is overpowering

brew time 25 ml/26 second; taste good, really sweet and balanced

93 Blend as espresso

brew time 20 ml/20 second; This is actually done by visual. I stop the extraction when the crema just about to blond. It taste really sweet, great body and pleasant lingering aftertaste!

brew time 25 ml/30 second; Taste Harsh!

brew time 25 ml/23 second; A real crowd pleaser while its still hot. It really big on the almond notes! But when the temperature drops a bit, some will like some definitely gonna hate. The fruit notes that some will taste as acidity increased tremendously, with notes that reminds me with blackcurrant.

brew time 25 ml/25 second; Creamy but really bitter at the end

brew time 25 ml/27 second; Really big on choco and nuts, its like sipping nutella!

93 Blend as Cappuccino

brew time 20 ml/20 second; Taste nice and balanced. Coffee and steamed milk works well together

brew time 25 ml/23 second; Taste great, with big almond flavor. The espresso stand out of the milk, but not overpowering

brew time 25 ml/27 second; Dont know why it reminds me of hot chocolate milk!

Excelent Blend as espresso

brew time 30 ml/19 second; big with fruit flavor and acidity, but bitter at the end

brew time 30 ml/24 second; basicly similar with above, but fruit more pronounced

brew time 30 ml/25 second; thick crema, not balanced, fruity, nice acidity, not too sweet

brew time 15 ml/30 second; bitter with cocoa notes, reminds me of a 99% cacao chocolate bar

brew time 25 ml/30 second; Nice acicity, lack of bitterness but sadly also lack of sweetness

 Excelent Blend as Cappuccino

this blend tend to fail as cappuccino. The espresso always lost to the milk unless you pull it 15 ml/30 seconds.

yuk ngopi, airnya apa?

Sabtu pagi itu dimulai beberapa hari sebelumnya. Andrew teman saya menelpon dan mengajak untuk melakukan uji citarasa air bersama saudaranya yang bekerja disebuah perusahaan air mineral. Sayang pada hari yang ditentuka saya tidak bisa hadir, sehingga tes tersebut diulang, dengan cara yang lebih santai, tanpa kehadiran saudaranya Andrew.

Sudah sejak beberapa tahun lalu saya rewel (rewel tampaknya sudah menjadi bawaan diri :D) terhadap air yang akan dipergunakan untuk menyeduh. Kerewelan ini dimulai entah berapa tahun yang lalu, ketika saya menemukan sebuah file di Internet yang berjudul Jim Schulman Long Water FAQ. Laporan maha panjang dan ribet ini membahas soal komposisi mineral yang pas untuk mesin espresso, dimana air tersebut memiliki kandungan mineral yang cukup hingga minyak-minyak yang terkandung dalam kopi bisa terekstrak keluar, namun tidak cukup banyak hingga timbulnya kerak dalam boiler tidak berlangsung terlalu cepat.

Dasar dari laporan tersebut adalah sebagai berikut. Semakin sadah atau keras airnya (jumlah PPm air semakin tinggi), maka rasa dari seduhan kopi yang dihasilkan akan terasa makin nikmat, karena kopi membutuhkan mineral dalam air untuk membantu mengekstrak minyak yang terkandung dalam sel-sel bubuk kopi, yang mengandung semua rasa dan bau nikmat yang kita uber setengah mati. Hal ini berbeda dengan teh yang membutuhkan air dengan tingkat kesadahan rendah agar rasa lembut yang dimilikinya bisa keluar dan terasa dengan nikmatnya.

Kembali ke sabtu pagi kemarin, Andrew menyiapkan 9 jenis air yang akan dipergunakan. Kesembilan air tersebut adalah:

  1. Aqua dari mata air Gunung Salak (tes TDS 138ppm)
  2. Evian dari mata air Evian-les-Baines,  Haute Savoie Perancis (tes TDS 244ppm)
  3. Volvic dari mata air Clairvic Spring, Volvic, Puy de Dôme Perancis (tes TDS 95ppm)
  4. Vit – mata air lupa dicatat   (tes TDS 89ppm)
  5. Hexagonal – mata air lupa dicatat (tes TDS 90ppm)
  6. Hydra Thera dari mata air Villa d’Equilibrium di Sukabumi (tes TDS 71ppm)
  7. Cleo Purewater – Mata air lupa dicatat (tes TDS 12ppm)
  8. Rivero air Reverse Osmosis – mata air lupa dicatat (tes TDS 3ppm)
  9. Amidis air distilasi – mata air lupa dicatat (tes TDS 0ppm)

Parameter yang dihunakan untuk pengujuan:

  • Kopi yang dipergunakan: kopi Toarco Toraja sisa perjalanan kesana beberapa bulan lalu
  • Metoda seduh:  french press
  • Waktu seduh : 4 menit
  • Rasio Seduh  : 24 gram/350ml air panas 93-94C
  • Grinder yang dipergunakan: Ditting KR1403
  • Air dipanaskan menggunakan teko listrik, dibaca temperaturnya menggunakan thermometer Fluke

Agar mempermudah penilaian, air mineral merek Agua diputuskan untuk menjadi standard awal. Alasannya karena selain ini adalah air mineral yang paling banyak dan gampang ditemukan di Jakarta, juga karena saya dan Andrew sudah kenal dengan karakter ekstraksi kopi Toarco Toraja kala diseduh menggunakan air ini. 

Sebagai standard awal, Aqua kami beri nilai 5 dalam skala 1 hingga 10. Bila bagi kami terasa lebih enak maka nilai akan menjadi lebih besar, sementara bila kami anggap lebih tidak enak, maka nilai akan lebih kecil. Berhubung ini dilakukan hari Sabtu, dimana jiwa pemalas sedang tinggi-tingginya, kami tidak menggunakan lembar penilaian model-model cupping form. Mungkin lain kali, kalau kami niat, ada baiknya lembar tersebut dipergunakan agar impresi yang ada dapat terekan dengan lebih baik, dan bisa lebih mempelajari karakter mana yang terpengaruh ketika air yang berbeda dipergunakan

Satu persatu kopi kami seduh dengan air yang berbeda, dan dicoba dalam kondisi panas-hangat dan dingin. Dari ke sembilan air tersebut akhirnya kami memutuskan bahwa air dengan kandungan mineral lebih tinggi memang menghasilkan larutan kopi yang terasa lebih kaya, sementara semakin sedikit mineral rasa kopinya akan semakin datar. Sesuai banget dengan teori yang disebutkan diatas. Volvic menghasilkan larutan kopi yang paling stabil secara temperatur, Air Hexagonal entah kenapa menghasilkan kopi yang aneh ke arah negatif, walau rasanya tidak sedatar Cleo dan Amidis. Karena rasa aneh tersebut (seperti obat-obatan cina/jamu seduh), walau memiliki kadar mineral yang lebih tinggi dari Hydra Thera, Air Hexagonal dinilai lebih rendah. Hal tersebut juga terjadi pada Cleo yang miliki kadar mineral lebih tinggi dari Rivero.

Kesimpulan sederhana yang bisa kami ambil adalah:

  1. Semakin tinggi kadar mineral, semakin kaya rasanya. Oleh karena itu pastikan kopi yang dipergunakan kualitas bagus, karena bila semua karakter jeleknya terekstrak, hasilnya tentu bukan secangkir kopi yang menyenangkan
  2. Punya kopi yang karakternya kasar dan cenderung tidak enak namun harus menyajikannya? pakailah amidis. Rasanya akan cenderung aman, karena sebagian besar minyak/rasa yang terkandung dalam kopi tidak dapat ikut tersekstrak karena minimnya mineral dalam air
  3. Dari percobaan sederhana ini, air yang tampaknya cukup baik untuk dipergunakan menyeduh, namun masih cukup aman untuk masuk ke pemanas mesin espresso adalah merek Rivero. Walau tidak seenak ketika menyeduh dengan merek Aqua, namun kadar mineralnya yang sedikit akan membuat pengkerakan pemanas akan berjalan lebih lambat

Satu hal lain yang mestinya kami lakukan, selain menguji kadar mineral dengan menggunakan TDS meter, adalah menguji tingkat alkalinitas air dengan mebggunakan pH meter. Semoga nanti apabila saya iseng lagi, saya sudah memiliki perangkat tersebut

Selamat mengopi 🙂 dan kalau iseng, tanyalah air apa yang dipakai menyeduh kopi yang kita nikmati tersebut. Biar gampang mendapatkan rasa yang sama bila kita menyeduh kopi yang sama di rumah 😀 

Pappaco Grandpa Espresso

Pappaco is a coffee roasting company that is based in Bandung and it does most of its marketing using Facebook. I have the pleasure to meet Gary, one of the guy behind this brand a few days ago, and He gaves me a pack of his Pappaco Grandpa Espresso to try out. Gary told me that they were using a loaned 15kg probat for quite a while, and now they are using a clone of that machine, made locally. Besides the Grandpa Espresso, they also have several single origins. In the near future, you could find their coffee being sold at Bandung’s Setiabudhi Supermarket Gary told me before that their Grandpa Espresso is a dark roast coffee. Honestly I didnt expect it to be this dark 🙂 When I open the bag, a roasted aroma seep out quite strong. It reminds me with some of starbucks’s coffee I buy/given. The coffee bean itself is oily in appearance . I honestly ave no idea when this coffee is roasted. Pappaco Coffee Jalan Cisitu Lama No.33 Bandung, Jawa Barat 40135 ph. +62817 76 4114 e-mail info@pappaco.com

as espresso

brew time 30 ml/30 second; honestly, looking at the powder color after grinding, I’m deeply worried. The powder is very dark, even a lot darker than Starbucks. JJ Royal came straight to mind, and honestly, for me, its not a good sign. The crema came out quite thick, with dark brown complexion. A weird but familiar smell came out when the pull being made. One sip after the pull is done, that smell is confirmed. This coffee is roasted dark, way to dark for me, that all I can taste huge bitterness with phenolic on the side. Not a pleasant cup. brew time 30 ml/23 second; changing the brew time to a standard used by some of Jakarta roaster/coffee house.  The big bitterness is still there. Not as big as a 30 second pull, but it still there, and still not a pleasant cup to drink. Unless you are a sado masochist or those who believe in  “if it aint bitter, its not coffee”  credo

as cappuccino

brew time 30 ml/30 second with Greenfields UHT milk; at first small sip, the coffee taste seems like in no existence. I could smell it, but couldnt trace the taste. Interestingly, the sweetness of the milk also gone. Its just like sipping slightly bitter water with coffee aroma. On the second sip, a propper sized sip, the coffee back with a vengeance.  That bitterness and phenolic character that dominates the espresso also dominates this cappuccino. Sweetness of the milk is untraceable. When temperature drops a bit, cocoa powder taste came through. Not my type of cappa…. brew time 30 ml/23 second with Greenfields UHT milk; The cappuccino taste a lot better that the previous pull, although for me personally its still far from perfect The bitterness and phenolic is a bit subdued, but still presence. Very dark chocolate, like one with 89% cacao in it type of chocolate. Again, not my type of cappa… Not balance at all…

lowering my machine temperature might help a bit, but since my expobar is not a PID one, changing it is a bit of a hassle. Plus… I almost ran out of coffee. What I have lefy is reserved for tomorrow, to be brewed as a drip… 

Gar, I honestly dont mean to be rude, by not writing  sweet review, but a slightly harsh one. I hope you can take this not so great review and using it to make your product into better one. 

Quintino’s Sumatra Mellow

I know this coffee (and the roasting company) for quite a loong time, and I’ve been playing with their coffee, either the Single Origins, or the Blend for quite some time. IMHO I consider Quintino’s as one of the best roaster around. I drank them personally, and use them in Javva, and many coffee shops that I help build. Why Quintino’s? well… Joe, the big (and literally big) guy behind this brand is passionate about his product. Passionate enough, that whenever I have “problems” with his bean, whether changing flavor profile, old beans, or whatever, I can call them up and have a satisfactory response.

Sumatra Mellow is what build Quintino ‘s at the first place. I remember when I went there years ago, the only choice is either Sumatra Mellow, or Sumatra Mellow 🙂 Now they have variety’s of Single Origins you can choose from, From Aceh to as far as Papua. Although I’ve been playing with it for years, as espresso, french press, tubruk, flatbottom pourover, you name it. But this morning, is the first time I brew this coffee using a V60.

PT Quintino’s Djava. Jl. Radio Dalam Raya No. 99 Jakarta 12140. ph. +62.21.722.3437 fax +62.21.722.3440 email sales@quintinos-coffee.com

as pourover

brew V60/10gr/200 ml (start) 150 ml (result)/± 92 C water/2 min 30 sec; the aroma is incredible, there’s note that I never smell/tasted before. Bright with big red plum type acidity at front, nice stable flavor all the way, fruity sweet, with nice cocoa powder ending

brew V60/10gr/200 ml (start) 150 ml (result)/± 92 C water/3 min; this one reminds me with the one I usually brew using a flatbottom. Although its still very nice, there that hint of bitterness that’s coming out. The brightness is gone so as the big red plum type of acidity is also disappear. The acidity now came as lime rind type (the skin and the white part of lime skin) but its still pretty sweet with bigger cocoa powder notes in it

brew V60/10gr/200 ml (start) 150 ml (result)/± 92 C water/2 min; at first, this is not a good brew. Taste like water you have after boiling some peanuts. After the temperature drops, acidity is lurking a bit. A lime zest type.  but still that doesnt make it into become an interesting cup

brew V60/10gr/200 ml (start) 150 ml (result)/± 92 C water/2 min; nope, you’re not seeing double. This time I adjust the grinder, make it finer, but pouring faster. The result is interesting. The brew is very sweet. Just sweet. Almost no bitterness, and no acidity. Interesting…. When the temperature have drop, the acidity is coming out, more on the orange candy type, and it become a very nice cup. (I wonder what will happen if I chilled it and making it iced coffee?)

Qertoev Coffee Gayo (from Bener Meriah region)

Qertoev is a small green bean trader owned and run by 1 of Gayo’s multi generation  farmer family. This 200 something gram sample is said being roasted using a Gene Cafe. This particular bean is at 1 time being offered to be bought by a roaster in Jakarta at US$10,8/kg. Price is sky high because of it’s unique flavor (and failing crop all over indonesia – at that time, unsorted bean on the farmer side is around US$7/kg). I wish I could have some more to play with it, seeing how it behaves under different situation/brewing method.

Qertoev Coffee – Gayo Specialty Coffee. Menjangan III A no. 17 Pd. Ranji Ciputat Timur. Ph/Fax +62.21.7410.539 email: qertoevcoffee@ymail.com
 

as Tubruk/Cupping Method

brew 10 gram/200 ml/±92 C water/4 minutes; Couldnt believe when being told this one is a Gayo. Very Floral, Rose water aroma, with big sweetness being balanced by bright orange flavor. Medium Body, clean finish. Honestly its very unlike Gayo, but damn good

as Pourover

brew 10 gram/200ml start/150ml end/±95 C water/flat bottom/±3 minutes; not as beautifull as a Tubruk. No Floral notes, tend to be very bright, the sweetness is there but but as big as expected, med to low body, very clean finish. When cold, the brew is very-very bright. Iced lemon tea bright!

as Single Origin Espresso

brew time 30 ml/20 second; Whooaa although d pull is way 2 fast, I love qertoev’s gayo as SingleOriginEspresso. Very bright, like iced lemon T w/ big cocoa notes @ end

Fantini Coffee (old italian blend coffee salvaged from a closed down minimart storage room)

as Espresso

brew time 30 ml/30 second; Having a textbook extraction of old Fantini , harsh bitterness infront, then sweet creamy chocolate with zing of lemon. Not bad 4 old coffee.  Brewing 1 of d most beautifull crema color I’ve ever seen, n it came from God knows how old cafe Fantini extra bar salvaged from a minimart. Thick even reddish brown crema, with shiny surface, and its stays for quite a while. Something I seldom c in espresso made using Indo beans.

brew time25 ml /30 second; tried 2 pull it shorter at longer extraction time, harshness infront gone, a bit smoother, but d beautiful flavour also gone

as Cappuccino

brew time 30 ml/30 second with Greenfileds UHT milk; when being asked what a decent cappuccino suppose to taste like, I have to say probably like this. You can taste a balance cup of creamy sweet milk, big chocolate notes, big coffee aroma, but lack of bitterness. Not one of those “damn I want another 1” type of drink, but it will glide nicely in yourmouth, prepping you for a brand new day (if ur italian that drinks a cappa before 11 am 😀 )

Sari Prima Wamena Papua Coffee

Sari Prima is one of Jayapura’s old roasting company. Although I have received a couple bag of this coffee as a gift over the years, this is the first time I received them as beans.  Having it as beans give me small freedom to play with it, brewing it in whatever method I want.  3 months ago, Sari Prima is setting up a distribution company in Jakarta, and now coffee drinker in Jakarta could find them in supermarkets such as Grand Lucky, Hero Kemang, and Giants. Kem Chick and Ranch Market is coming soon, said Mr. Roy Rindorindo, Jakarta’s office proprietor. Coffee are still shipped from papua as roasted bean.

Sari Prima – Papua Specialty Coffee. Jl Kucica 10 Blok JF 7/21 Bintaro sektor 9 Tangerang Selatan. ph. +62.21.745.5963 or 0878.8103.5092 email papuatuna@gmail.com


as Single Origin Espresso

brew time 30 ml/26 detik; cawerang alias wattery, d citrus is still there, but body, sweetness n choco notes none

brew time 30 ml/30 detik; very citrusy, pomelo like, with big choco @ d end

brew time 25 ml/25 detik; cakep abis. nice body, sweet yet citusy more cocoa than chocolate. I Like!

as cappuccino

brew time 30 ml/30 detik with diamond milk; very interesting as a cappuccino, although some people might think that d milk have gone bad 😛 acidity is marvelous thing. Sweet with big citrus notes, with nice soft milk chocolate ending. No bitterness at all.

as pourover

brew V60/10gr/200 ml (start) 150 ml (result)/± 92 C water/2 minutes; nice clean tasting while hot, medium body, sweet. Aroma develop more when temperature drop a bit. Dark cherries, lemon zest, caramelly sweet. Clean finish

brew V60/10gr/200 ml (start) 150 ml (result)/± 92 C water/2 min 30 sec; not as clean as the 2 minutes brew, have more body, there’s a hint of harshness in it. After it cools down a bit, it becomes winey, big burnt caramel, and dark cherries. Acidity is very low at this point. Finish is a bit harsh but it last.

brew flat bottom/10gr/200 ml (start) 150 ml (result)/± 92 C water/2 min 15 sec; hint of citrus with  milk chocolate and ripe tropical fruit, but sadly no dark cherries like when brewed using a  V60

brew flat bottom/10gr/200 ml (start) 150 ml (result)/± 92 C water/3 min 10 sec; big cocoa notes at first, very ripe tropical fruits, but no sweetness n acidity